Joy's little secrets about Sweden

Trip to Carl Larsson in Sundborn

(Note: The home has hourly tours 10-5pm May 1 - Sept. 30. After this date there is only one daily tour at 11am. With prior arrangements, a tour can be arranged in English for a group. Phone: 023-60053)

This write-up is especially for those who would like to visit Carl Larsson's home in Sundborn, and have no car! The good news is you can go by bus or train! I went by bus, which I believe was cheaper than train fare.

Tuesday - 20th Thru Internet I order a ticket with www.swebusexpress.se (total cost 225 kr), and travelled 3 hours from Stockholm to Falun, the neighboring town to Sundborn (15km), where Carl and Karin Larsson's home lies. I stayed at the Falun Prison Youth Hostel - yes, it used to be a prison! The owners have spruced it up quite nicely, except for the padlocked doors! There are easier locks on them. So for 200kr you can have a double room, and use of kitchen, shower and toilet. The halls have comfortable sofas and a TV at one end. There are also two hotels in Falun. A Pensionat Bed and Breakfast in

Sundborn (ph: 02362510) is also available, which is right by a bus stop for Bus #64. This is convenient if you don't want to stay in Falun, and be in the beautiful countryside.

I walked from the bus/train station to the centrum, where I found the turist center (there are also taxis available). They gave me a map and directed me to my hostel, which I reached 20 minutes later by foot. They said it was a 10 minute walk, but I have learned that Europeans don't have an accurate time of walking distance! Anyway, it was a lovely day, so I headed back out after signing in and depositing my things in my room. I took a one and half hour walk thru the city of Falun, which reminded me of Gamla Stan in Stockholm. There are quite a few things of interest - three old churches to name one. I returned to eat my sushi I brought with me, and retired quite early.

Wednesday - I walked back to the station (30 minutes) and took #64 bus to Sundborn. (After my bus ride, I discovered that there was a bus stop only two blocks from my hostel!) I took the 11AM tour of the house (in english, of course!)- Carl Larsson is a famous Swedish artist who had 8 children with his artist wife,

Karin. One child died quite young, and another died at age 18, of appendicitis. His main subjects became his children, wife and their home life. Karin laid aside her "fine art" painting, and turned her creativity into designing her own clothes and hats that were very comfortable for a woman who was pregnant most of the time! She also designed her own embroidery patterns, furniture, etc., for the home. The house they lived in was given to them by Karin's father.

I had a lovely buffet lunch right next to Larsson's home. For 85 SEK there was salad bar, meat, veg and potatoes, choice of cold drink and tea/coffee. The food was delicious! Because my main goal in going was to paint, I spent 2 1/2 hours watercolor sketching two small vignettes of their home, sitting at a picnic table right next to the house. I enjoyed the peaceful small town, walking down Larsson Vägen, to the other end where the church is located, and their graves. The colors were brilliant, leaves starting to change color. My digital camera served me well, taking 100 shots during my entire stay. I returned back to Falun 8 hours later. As I ate supper in our little kitchen, I also painted a view from the window, of the oldest church in Falun- the Stora Kopparberg Kyrka - from the 1300s. I walked down into the town again to attend a 7:30 communion service at Katrine Kyrka - very nice and small, intimate gathering.

Thursday I got up 7AM, so I could take one last walk over to Kopparsberg kyrka, a short distance behind my hostel. What a beautiful old building, and it was open! I got some great

photos of the inside, and the janitor gave me permission to play the grand piano (it was only 9 AM). That was special, worshipping the Lord in this huge church with great acoustics, and high ceiling! I took a slow walk back to the hostel, cleaned my room and caught the # 64 bus back to the station. This was much easier than walking the distance pulling a not so light carryon! I had discovered the day before that the 64 bus went thru town and just a couple blocks from my hostel, which would have been good information to have the day before!!!! But that is typical Swedish culture - when you need information, you will get just what you ask for, nothing more and nothing less...... So, back on the Swebuss at 11:45 and my return to Stockholm was completed.

If you do have a car, log on to www.visitfalun.se . There you will find a list of bed and breakfasts, guest homes, etc.... This is also where you

will find info for the prison, or you can call direct to 023-795575. Important information about bus #64: It is the only bus that goes to Sundborn. All year this bus goes just about every hour, after 12 noon. However, It only goes twice on weekends, which means if you take public transport, you will have to take your trip during the week. Bus fares are cheaper Monday thru Thursday. If you decide to stay at the prison hostel, you can take the # 64 bus from the station, and get off the Vasagatan stop. When you step off, walk the opposite direction of the bus on this street, and the hostel is about 5 blocks up on your left. This will give you a 10 minute walk, instead of 30!

I hope I covered everything, but if you have any questions, don't hesitate to call or write! I hope you enjoyed my journey with me. Joy T. Björk at joy=awcstockholm.org

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