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Joy's
little secrets about
Sweden
Trip
to Carl Larsson in Sundborn
(Note:
The home has hourly tours 10-5pm May 1 - Sept. 30. After this
date there is only one daily tour at 11am. With prior arrangements,
a tour can be arranged in English for a group. Phone: 023-60053)
This
write-up is especially for those who would like to visit Carl
Larsson's home in Sundborn, and have no car! The good news
is you can go by bus or train! I went by bus, which I believe
was cheaper than train fare.
Tuesday
- 20th Thru Internet I order a ticket with www.swebusexpress.se
(total cost 225 kr), and travelled 3 hours from Stockholm
to Falun, the neighboring town to Sundborn (15km), where Carl
and Karin Larsson's home lies. I stayed at the Falun Prison
Youth Hostel - yes, it used to be a prison! The owners have
spruced it up quite nicely, except for the padlocked doors!
There are easier locks on them. So for 200kr you can have
a double room, and use of kitchen, shower and toilet. The
halls have comfortable sofas and a TV at one end. There are
also two hotels in Falun. A Pensionat Bed and Breakfast in
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Sundborn
(ph: 02362510) is also available, which is right by
a bus stop for Bus #64. This is convenient if you don't
want to stay in Falun, and be in the beautiful countryside.
I
walked from the bus/train station to the centrum, where
I found the turist center (there are also taxis available).
They gave me a map and directed me to my hostel, which
I reached 20 minutes later by foot. They said it was
a 10 minute walk, but I have learned that Europeans
don't have an accurate time of walking distance! Anyway,
it was a lovely day, so I headed back out after signing
in and depositing my things in my room. I took a one
and half hour walk thru the city of Falun, which reminded
me of Gamla Stan in Stockholm. There are quite a few
things of interest - three old churches to name one.
I returned to eat my sushi I brought with me, and retired
quite early.
Wednesday
- I walked back to the station (30 minutes) and took
#64 bus to Sundborn. (After my bus ride, I discovered
that there was a bus stop only two blocks from my hostel!)
I took the 11AM tour of the house (in english, of course!)-
Carl Larsson is a famous Swedish artist who had 8 children
with his artist wife,
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Karin.
One child died quite young, and another died at age
18, of appendicitis. His main subjects became his children,
wife and their home life. Karin laid aside her "fine
art" painting, and turned her creativity into designing
her own clothes and hats that were very comfortable
for a woman who was pregnant most of the time! She also
designed her own embroidery patterns, furniture, etc.,
for the home. The house they lived in was given to them
by Karin's father.
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I
had a lovely buffet lunch right next to Larsson's home.
For 85 SEK there was salad bar, meat, veg and potatoes,
choice of cold drink and tea/coffee. The food was delicious!
Because my main goal in going was to paint, I spent
2 1/2 hours watercolor sketching two small vignettes
of their home, sitting at a picnic table right next
to the house. I enjoyed the peaceful small town, walking
down Larsson Vägen, to the other end where the church
is located, and their graves. The colors were brilliant,
leaves starting to change color. My digital camera served
me well, taking 100 shots during my entire stay. I returned
back to Falun 8 hours later. As I ate supper in our
little kitchen, I also painted a view from the window,
of the oldest church in Falun- the Stora Kopparberg
Kyrka - from the 1300s. I walked down into the town
again to attend a 7:30 communion service at Katrine
Kyrka - very nice and small, intimate gathering.
Thursday
I got up 7AM, so I could take one last walk over to
Kopparsberg kyrka, a short distance behind my hostel.
What a beautiful old building, and it was open! I got
some great
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photos
of the inside, and the janitor gave me permission to
play the grand piano (it was only 9 AM). That was special,
worshipping the Lord in this huge church with great
acoustics, and high ceiling! I took a slow walk back
to the hostel, cleaned my room and caught the # 64 bus
back to the station. This was much easier than walking
the distance pulling a not so light carryon! I had discovered
the day before that the 64 bus went thru town and just
a couple blocks from my hostel, which would have been
good information to have the day before!!!! But that
is typical Swedish culture - when you need information,
you will get just what you ask for, nothing more and
nothing less...... So, back on the Swebuss at 11:45
and my return to Stockholm was completed.
If you do have a car, log on to www.visitfalun.se
. There you will find a list of bed and breakfasts,
guest homes, etc.... This is also where you
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will
find info for the prison, or you can call direct to
023-795575. Important information about bus #64: It
is the only bus that goes to Sundborn. All year this
bus goes just about every hour, after 12 noon. However,
It only goes twice on weekends, which means if you take
public transport, you will have to take your trip during
the week. Bus fares are cheaper Monday thru Thursday.
If you decide to stay at the prison hostel, you can
take the # 64 bus from the station, and get off the
Vasagatan stop. When you step off, walk the opposite
direction of the bus on this street, and the hostel
is about 5 blocks up on your left. This will give you
a 10 minute walk, instead of 30!
I
hope I covered everything, but if you have any questions,
don't hesitate to call or write! I hope you enjoyed
my journey with me. Joy T. Björk at joy=awcstockholm.org
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